Air Conditioning Problem

[schultz]

Hello All, I have a 1983 33 SF with the stock from the factory split Cruisair 16,000 BTU Air Conditioning system. The boat spent it's entire life untill last August on Lake Erie (about 5 months in the water then into heated storage) and had probably never been slept on with very little use on the AC. Only 800 hours on the engines, 40 on the 6.5 Onan gen. The AC system has it's dedicated 30 amp shore power inlet. Cruisair specs show the AC draws 14 amps with a note that it draws 3 to 4 times that at start up. That would be 42 to 56 amps. I have been tripping the external (out on the cockpit) 30 amp circuit breaker for the AC (line #2). I figure 25 years old and the breaker is probably getting weak. Line #1 circuit breaker shows evidence of heat stress. High Tide sends me 2 new breakers, the rubber covers, 2 new Marinco Male shore power connectors and 2 new fiberglass mounting panels (the old thin royalite panels are spliting and cracked), they are almost a perfect fit. Install all of the above along with a new FX-1 digital controller after reading about it on this site. All everyone said about it is true, it is a great improvment. However I am still tripping the cockpit CB at initial start up after the water pump, fan and then when the compresor comes on line it trips. I can immediately reset it and all is well for hours of use. I set the FX-1 digital controler at 74 degrees. The fan starts slowing down around 78 then at 75 it is on low speed. Much better than hearing the fan on high all night. At 74 the compresor shut off. When the temp goes back up to 75 the compresor comes back on line and trips the cockpit CB. I can immediatley reset it and all is well till the compresor cycles on then off. If I drape a towel over the FX-1 digital control the AC remains on until I shut it off manually, due to the temp sensor location in the FX-1 pannel. I now have a new Start Relay, Start Capacitor and Run Capacitor on the way to install this weekend. Current temperature is 102 with 85% humidity. Electrical work is not my strong suit but like most locations when it comes to having anything done to your boat your are better off to do it yourself if at all possible. In the interest of not wanting to SNAFU anything up, or even worse kill myself with these 340 VAC components can anyone give me any advice or heads up when replacing these above items? Thanks in advance. Cliff Schultz 1983 33' SF Cummins 555's "Final Approach" [img]http://www.bertram33.com/photogallery/p ... proach.jpg[/img]

[dougl33]

Cliff, Are you sure you're getting enough juice from the marina? The electrical system at my marina is a little on the weak side. Technically, they don't want us using our AC, but I usually do if I'm sleeping aboard. If it's particularly hot or if a lot of people are on their boats my unit usually pops the breaker.

[schultz]

Hi Doug, Thanks for the reply, I forgot to mention the panel indicates 120 VAC. I am the 5th boat in from the start of the dock so I always get good power from shore. It is a valid point though and should have included the information with the initial request. Cliff Schultz 1983 33' SF Cummins 555's "Final Approach" [img]http://www.bertram33.com/photogallery/p ... proach.jpg[/img]

[Rick]

If the fins on the evaporator are clogged (and mine was clogged big time last Summer), it will strain the system and cause it to draw more current. It's not an easy get to. Remove both draws above the stove, remove the bulkhead inside the port v-berth locker and get at it the best you can. There's a screen in front of it and you'll have to remove that screen, clean it up and replace the screen. Worth a try. Rick Ticket 85 SF Merc 454 MPI's Falmouth, MA

[schultz]

Thanks Rick I'll give that a try also. Cliff Schultz 1983 33' SF Cummins 555's "Final Approach" [img]http://www.bertram33.com/photogallery/p ... proach.jpg[/img]