Insulating Engine Boxes Bertram 33 SF

robert watters · Post by **robert watters** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 11:42 am

The previous owner had removed all of the engine insulation form the engine boxes. I'm running 3208 CATS. Does anybody have any opinions on the amount of sound reduction with insulation (worth it or not worth it) and if it's worth it on the type of insulation to use.

sbeer · Post by **sbeer** » Fri Apr 21, 2006 3:38 am

Boat u.s. has the sound insulation. Its pretty expensive but in my opinion needed. I did my boxes and walls to the cabin with the stuff and there was quit abit of diffrence. Mike

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » Fri Apr 21, 2006 4:56 am

Also, check www.defender.com I used soundown 1" under the salon floor of my B35 & I know several guys have used it in their B31's engine boxes. They make it thicker, but 1" should be good to go. I used (3) 4x3 sheets with tape, hangers and spray glue and it cost $200 and change. I bought from the yard I winter with as they've got a full service store and were about the same as ording and shipping. Make sure what you get has the lead lining, ti will make the difference. For my installation, it took two Saturdays. The first day to remove the old fiberglass insulation, sand off the old glue and then prime. I was going to paint but didn't want to take another day to do that. The second to install the new foam. This was working alone, if you have help it may go quicker. Also I only had about 4-5 hours to work each day. Here are the steps I followed when I installed mine. 1) I removed the old insulation sanded and primed where it was to be installed. 2) Cut the insulation to fit. 3) Since my engine hatches are wood I just screwed the hanger in place (for an engine box you may need to epoxy the hanger, or just use spray glue only and don't use the hangers unless the spray glue doesn't hold). 4) After the hangers were I applied the spray glue and put the foam in place, pressing it on the hangers. 5) Once in place th hager pin is trimmed to be about flush with the insulation. Then the retaining clip is placed on the stem of the hanger. Then the finish cap. I messed this up on the first one and didn't trim the stem of the hanger and it poked through the finish cap, it was a buggar to get back off. 6) Tape any seams and and edges. Good Luck JohnD

bosdockpilot · Post by **bosdockpilot** » Fri Apr 28, 2006 2:37 am

I also used soundown. They are (at least when I did my project 6 years ago)located in Marblehead, MA. I measured all the pieces needed and went across town with my tape measure. The had a loft with left over pieces from previous jobs. After crawling around I found enough to do both engine covers, engineroom access hatch and the generator hatch cover. Also did bulkhead in generator space. You can now talk at normal level between engine hatches @ cruising speed. We also used soundown on a few of the company tugs. As with previous poster I utilized the 1" w/lead insert. I simply removed old insulation piece by piece and used as a templete to cut new one w/razor knife. 3M spray glue (for insulation sold @ soundown)and reused screws/washes already on old insulation. Hope this helps....Steve (1980 33SF 3208 Cats)

robert watters · Post by **robert watters** » Sun Apr 30, 2006 7:41 am

Thanks for all the good input; now have the info I need and inspiration that it'll make a difference!