Question on Cummins Install

[RobB]

First, thank you David for all your work in rebuilding this website, it looks great. Very impressive that you were able to retain most of the archives.

This question is for Frank Price, as you are the only person I could find that re-powered a late model Sport Fish with Cummins B engines. There may well be others, if so I would appreciate your input as well. What was your technique in getting the engines through the engine box opening? With the late model version the enlarged house covers up the forward half of the engine box, leaving only a 36” opening. From the Cummins drawings it seems that the engine is almost that tall, even with the shallow marine oil pan.

By the way it looks, the engine will only go in if it is tipped forward quite steeply. I am wondering how you were able to level it out before hitting the stringers, as it is about 50” long to the turbo. Also, the center of gravity is such that the lift point goes under the box before the engine is all the way forward. Did you have the transmission already installed, or did you move the lift point back and use a lever out the back to bring the front up? It seems that a rigid spreader bar attached very close to the lift brackets will be needed, but there is barely enough room for that. Did you leave the isolator mounts off until it was in position?

I welcome any advice you can offer. Thanks.

Bob Buell

[franklyprice]

Hi Bob,
The transmissions will have to be off, easy to install those afterward. I had a local, very talented tow truck / crane operator do the original install, there was just enough room to get the head of the crane in there with the engines hanging off of it. A few years later I wanted to pull one of the engines so I did end up making a bar that connects to the lifting rings, with an offset attaching point, then lifted the engine with a long cantilever with a counter weight, both were made of aluminum I-beam. Worked out well but I remember that I was a little short on lead for the counter weight and had Bill Dunlop hanging on it to make up for it. I still have the I-beams but I'm not shipping them to Florida..I'll have them in Tennessee in a month or so , so if you want to take a drive, maybe you can use them.
Hope this helps.

[RobB]

Thanks for the quick reply Frank. I was thinking along the lines of a lever and counterweight also. I have a long piece of heavy aluminum pipe that should work. I was concerned about the bridge overhang using a crane and cable, so I have lined up a telehandler with boom.

You must have used temporary rear mounts on the engine to support it until transmissions were attached? I am using the ZF220A, so will use those for the permanent rear mounts. I not sure I want try using a jack under the engine to hold it up until the transmission is in.

I am installing QSB5.9 355 Recons but haven’t selected props yet, what horsepower, transmission ratio and props did you use?

[h2ojst]

Hi Bob, although I have not done this particular installation, I have completed many others. 2 tools are absolutely indispensable: A variable angle spreader bar and a porta-power. The spreader bar has a threaded rod on it that adjusts the load angle as you lower into place and the porta-power with the wedge spreader (for lack of the exact name) can fit in tight places and move things just not humanly possible. You can do all the final alignment in minutes instead of hours by putting the wedge under the engine with some wood blocks if needed and then just adjust the mounts accordingly....It also helps to have a real tiny guy with big arms in the bilge.....and Frank to guide you along!

[RobB]

Hello Joe, thanks for the input, there is no substitute for experience. I have one of those adjustable spreader bars, but I don’t think there is enough head room to get it under the engine box. I suppose that is where the portapower comes in - if I leave the isolation mounts off, the engine will be low enough to get the spreader bar under. Then use the portapower to lift enough to get mounts under.

[franklyprice]

I don't think it would be necessary to leave the mounts off. I think I set the engines on the front mounts and used blocks on the rear . Joe had the porto power advantage that I didn't but it worked anyway. I had a few guys helping with the original install, I recall Al Lupone down there next to an engine at one point. If you use shackles to attach the leveler I think you'll have enough room to get it done.

[lobsta1]

Yeah, I was in there when we first tried with the tranny on. Wouldn't fit, so we pulled the tranny & it slipped right in. You pulled the tranny on the stb motor & the boom operator dropped it right in. Your set ups with the motor mounts were perfect & everything bolted right up. I think the total time was under 2 hours.
Al

[RobB]

Thanks fellas. That saves me some trial and error while the clock is running on the forklift.

[lobsta1]

Bob, Frank's guy didn't use a forklift. He had a boom truck with a long pole that he hung the motor from. Using that he was able to reach in & than lower the engine. Also, no reflection on you but Frank is an artist with his metal working skills. The motor mounts he created were a thing of beauty. The engines lined up perfectly.
Al

[franklyprice]

Thanks Al..