Page 1 of 2

What to use?

Posted: Sat Mar 05, 2016 10:25 pm
by lobsta1
Had the bottom soda blasted. The ? now is what do I use for a barrier coat? Besides the 2000E, Interlux has a high solids epoxy that claims just three coats with a 1/4" nap roller. Two coats with a 3/8" nap, but that will leave a bumpy surface. According to the data sheet the 2000E would require 6 gals. The HS takes 3 gals. Pettit also has their product, but I haven't researched it yet. I will probably go with one of the Hydrocoat products. Don't know which one yet. Any suggestions? Remember Nites Off stays in the water for three years between haul outs. Thanks Al

Posted: Sun Mar 06, 2016 6:42 am
by Rick
You could roll & tip with west system epoxy mixed with 422, looks like that's smoother but probably a lot more money. Rick Ticket 85 SF Merc 454 MPI's Falmouth, MA

Posted: Sun Mar 06, 2016 7:29 pm
by franklyprice
If you can believe Pettit's description , it sounds like a superior product but how do you know?

Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2016 9:05 am
by lobsta1
Frank, Just looked up the Pettit installation. With a 30 minute induction time, minimum 2 1/2 hrs. between coats & I'm guessing 1 1/2 hrs. per coat, it doesn't look to practical. At 70 degrees the second coat MUST be bottom painted within a minimum 5 hrs. & a maximum of 8 hrs. So the two coats are a minimum of 9 hrs. plus the 5 hr. wait under ideal 70 degree would still be 14 hrs. to start bottom painting. Maybe if I were 25 instead of 68 it might be doable. So it looks like I go with the Interlux HS. Any one else care to add any comments? Al

Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2016 1:15 pm
by No Yacht Yet
Al I'm going to soda blast the 42 in a couple of years. Unfortunately I'm going to have to pay the yard to do all the work. It will be barrier coated,then 2 coats of red and 2 coats of dark blue. When the first layers start to wear off it will show the red, thats where I'll reapply. They are going to spray all coats, silky smooth. I'm going with the Interlux since I cant do the job. I had the water based Hydrocoat and it didn't smell during reapplication, the bottom also had a lot more growth on it than the Interlux. That could be because the water down my way is significantly warmer than where you are. Buzzards Bay temps have changed over the last couple of years.

Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2016 1:17 pm
by Aquaman
AL I also had my bottom sodas blasted this winter.The bottom had layers and layers of old paint on it so it was time to start fresh.The boat yard is now in the process of sanding the bottom. Then the yard is using Interlux 2000E barrier coat.I also removed some old transducers and I'm in the process of replacing the backer plates of my seawater engine pick ups. Wood backer plates were deteriorated plywood. Hopefully the boat will be more fuel efficient and maybe I can pick up a little more speed. Good Luck John J

Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2016 4:30 pm
by asher
Anyone mind giving a ball park figure on how much the soda blasting cost on your 33 or 35? There's only one company down my way that does it and the price gouging is probably unreal. Looking at having it done within the year, the bottom of my 35 must have at least 10 coats of paint on it.

Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2016 5:10 pm
by Stafford
The interprotecI 2000 is a great product and 1 kit/gallon wil easily cover a 33 or 35'. 4 coats followed by 2 coats of bottom paint. I have used the new micron cf this past season with good results. Customers have used any of the Micron paints with little growth. Pettit barrier coat is thicker and the proper thickness can be achieved with 3 coats followed by 2 coats of Vivid or hydrocoat. There is no need for contrasting paint colors if you pay attention to the paint. You will see the barrier coat and know it is time to paint. I have seen the contrasting colors separate and fail. Extended service, 3 years between haulout is asking to much from any paint. The prices for blasting a 33 or 35' ? Give me a call 800-901-4253 and I can let you know for my area. Chris I just stripped my 35' for the 3rd time in 5 years. Left the barrier coat intact and will coat with 2 coats of micron in a couple weeks. It was easier to blast the propspeed off my gear and the old paint then Scraping and sanding the silicone. Pettit Barnical Coat will be sprayed on all the underwater metal.

Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 2:20 am
by Aquaman
asher Here in New Jersey at the yard I winter my boat the blasting for a 33 is $45.00 to $48.00 a foot and the complete bottom job blasting, barrier coating and painting is $3300 I'm getting mine done for $3000

Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 2:28 am
by No Yacht Yet
Is it possible that separation between paints is caused by not applying to the manufactures re-coat times? The yard that will be doing mine has been doing it that way for many many years without a problem.

Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 6:54 am
by lobsta1
Where I have my boat, they subcontract for the blaster so they can get their cut. Don't know what the blaster charges on a per foot basis, but my bill was $1663. Stafford, with a roller would I be able to get one coat per gal.? With the high solids I would only need 3 gal. then. Can anyone recommend which water based paint to use that does NOT slime up? Thanks Al

Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 10:59 am
by dougl33
Al, I've used the hydrocoat for the past few years. Its been OK, not great. I wouldn't say my results were any different than when I was using Micron CSC, but its certainly easier to clean up. As such, I'll keep using it.

Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 3:02 pm
by Stafford
Hydrocoat is the only water based product I have experience with, but all the paints slime over. The hard growth is the real concern. After a day of running the slime is gone. The coverage of the InterprotecI HS should be 1gal/ coat. First coat is the leanest. Aother coats not a problem The contrasting color base coat, especially 2 coats is a waste of good paint for the average boater hauling every winter. The reason we blast boats in the first place is because of heavy buildup, with 2 base and two top coats you will be getting a jump start on buildup. Not only that, you will start to loose the sharp crisp edge on the lifting strakes and chines. Every little bit helps. They are selling more paint and labor.

Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2016 3:48 am
by No Yacht Yet
I've seen the bottoms of the boats they have blasted and re-coated using that process. There is no excessive build up. The strakes are defined. After 5 years they still look the same as the day they were done. Silky smooth just like a brand new boats bare fiberglass bottom. Maybe that's because the spray them, not roll them. I know they block the bottoms out, that could be the difference also. They stand behind their work too, no excuse. That's rare these days.

Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2016 5:36 am
by asher
Thanks for the idea on prices. I'm pretty sure the yard rates are a lot higher down here since there isn't an annual haul out for winter so they have to make their money somehow. Hopefully when I start calling around I will find someone for a halfway reasonable price.