general AC question

stevewy · Post by **stevewy** » Fri Jun 11, 2010 12:49 am

I've owned a 1978 33' flybridge for almost 20 years. When I first purchased it, she was in rough shape. Over the years I've fixed her up nice. My AC has never worked, and wasn't a priority for me to get it running. Well, now I have both units working properly. Silly/dumb question: What is the proper way to run it? I have a "Y" on my shore power 1 and 2 and connect the power supply cord. If I switch my panel to shore #2 my meter doesn't read that I'm getting power, but the AC runs. If I have it on shore #1 everything including the AC runs, and the meter shows voltage coming in. When using the AC should I be on shore #1 or shore #2? Thanks

Buy2ls · Post by **Buy2ls** » Fri Jun 11, 2010 2:30 am

You can use shore 1 for everything. In prolonged situations where the AC is on constantly and you are using things like the hotwater heater or the microwave maybe a hairdryer as well, you will probably start popping breakers. This is a good time to plug in to shore 2 and run the AC independantly. As far as your situation goes, for starters don't use the splitter unless you are splitting 2 30 amp cables into 1 50 amp. As far as not seeing voltage on shore 2, I suspect that the boat's #2 inlet plug/wiring is fugazy, check that first.

stevewy · Post by **stevewy** » Fri Jun 11, 2010 3:02 am

Thank you very much. I will follow your advise and disconnect the splitter and run off of shore #1. Just out of curiosity; why do you suggest to not use the splitter?

Sean B · Post by **Sean B** » Fri Jun 11, 2010 4:00 am

If I run everything including A/C on Shore Line #1 on my boat, I start pulling in excess of 20 amps and my shore power cord gets warm.... I would keep the A/C on line #2, and then everything else on #1.... as Bertram had intended. If your boat is like mine then the A/C voltage and Amp meters in the electrical panel only apply to shore line #1. If you split two 30 amp shore lines into one 30 amp then you are potentially overloading the single 30 amp cord. You need to have two 30 amp cords running to individual 30 amp sockets, or split into one 50 amp socket. If you run everything including A/C off of #1... well I wouldn't walk away from it while the A/C is turned on. Periodically check the socket into the boat (in the cockpit) and the cord by putting your hand on it. I bet you'll find that it gets very warm. If you split two 30's into one 30, make sure your insurance is paid up. One thing you might want to have done is to get a Cruisair certified A/C guy to come check the coolant levels in the unit. I had it done and both my high and low pressures were hopping all over the place, indicating that there was air or other contaminants in the system. The guy I found evacuated the existing coolant, then vacuumed the lines completely, and installed fresh new R22. The pressures held steady and it ran much better in general after this treatment, and it cost about $240. Some of these guys will put in "cleaned" or "recycled" R22 and that can be the source of the contaminants in the lines. Don't use anybody unless they are putting in new fresh R22 from the factory. R22 is expensive now, and some of them try to cheap out using "cleaned" R22, but they don't know (despite what they might tell you) what else is in that jug of recovered coolants... including other non R22 coolants that may have been mistakenly put in there (pulled out of someone else's unit).

stevewy · Post by **stevewy** » Fri Jun 11, 2010 4:55 am

That makes sense. I had to purchase a new unit for the V-Berth, and the salon unit was evacuated and new R-22 installed. So, if I connect 2 power cords (one to #1 and the other to #2) and set my panel to shore #1, the air will be operating automatically off of shore #2? Or, should I select shore #2 on the panel. If I select shore #2, I don't think anything else operates (I'll check later today when I go to the boat). In short, the ideal situation (and easy for me to understand) is to to run the 2 cords, have both shore 1 and 2 breakers on, both AC breakers on at the interior panel, turn the switch to shore #1, start my air up, and feel comfortable everything is safe and working. Correct? Thanks so much, for the reply

buzzk · Post by **buzzk** » Fri Jun 11, 2010 6:09 am

I run two lines I put the A/C switch on shore power two and everything else runs of of shore power one. I have two power cords run to the boat so why take a chance. When we travel we normally plug into a 50 amp breaker and split it into to two 30 amp cords. Buzz

Rick · Post by **Rick** » Fri Jun 11, 2010 6:25 am

Me too, I use 2 shore power lines. I've used SP # 1 for A/C and it works fine but I like not loading anything down too much. Rick Ticket 85 SF Merc 454 MPI's Falmouth, MA

Post by **dougl33** » Fri Jun 11, 2010 6:38 am

I only use the number one line, but we're not supposed to run our AC at the dock.

lobsta1 · Post by **lobsta1** » Fri Jun 11, 2010 7:00 am

Steve, I have a 1978 FB also. You said you have two AC units including one in the vee berth. Where in the vee is it? Where is the one in the salon? Are these self contained or are they like the original split Cruisair? I have the original Cruisair. The evaporator is behind the panel in the closet. (behind the lower helm). The condenser is amid-ship next to the water tank. Our elec. panels are wired such that shore 2 will not show on the meter. It is only for the AC. I plan to eventually tie into that for an AC elec. sub-panel. Then I can add outlets in the cockpit & on the bridge as well as in the galley area. Al

stevewy · Post by **stevewy** » Sun Jun 13, 2010 9:44 am

The unit in the V Berth is under the Vee in the center, so, right behind where the small insert rests. The V Berth unit is self contained and runs off of the same pump as the main unit for the salon. The controls in the V Berth are on the Starboard Side on the front wall (with the open locker behind it. The main unit is forward of the starboard engine. I ran it all weekend on 2 power cords, with the shore line line selected on the panel. They both ran great in terms of temperature, but after running the salon unit I noticed the carpet going down the stairs was wet. I followed the moisture and it appears to be coming out of the wall by the condenser. My guess is the pan under the condenser isn't draining, but I can't find the drain hose. I've redone the whole interior, so the original walls have been replaced. It's a pain to remove all of the moulding and then the wall panels, but I think that's what I'll have to do to find out why it's leaking...............unless, of course any one else has had a similar experience and can give me a tip.

schultz · Post by **schultz** » Sun Jun 13, 2010 11:40 am

Buzz, I run my AC the same as you. If I select Shore Line 1 I always trip the breaker (at the aft deck connector). The only disadvantage is that as pointed out the ac amp draw only reads for line 1. Sometimes at the initial start up of the AC I will trip the breaker on line 2 but after I reset the breaker once (at the aft deck) the AC works fine all day. If I can find a Cruise Air tech I would like to do some service and checks like Doug did to keep the unit operating as long as possible. With it being 27 years old and not knowing how it had been serviced and operated before I bought the boat, would probably be best to do so.

buzzk · Post by **buzzk** » Sun Jun 13, 2010 3:49 pm

I've run mine on line one before and didn't have a problem but I didn't have my H2O heater and stove on. I don't ever use my stove and rarely leave the H2O heater on. Because I think it's safer to use two shore lines is why I use two. Cliff, have you checked to make sure all your connections are clean? Maybe you have a weak breaker. Buzz

schultz · Post by **schultz** » Mon Jun 14, 2010 2:12 pm

Buzz, I replaced both 30 amp breakers (aft deck)along with shore power cable conectors shortly after buying the boat. They were both old, weak and had been overheated many times in the past. When I first started using the air conditioner the condening unit would ring and shut down continuosly. I replaced the analog control panel with the FX-1 digital panel along with new connectors. Then I replaced the relay, capacitor and start capacitor. This took care of the ringing and continuous shut downs. I am now down to this last problem of a single shut down followed by good ops after reseting the 30 amp breaker one time. After using the AC all day the water pump is warm to the touch, along with one of the connectors (can't recall the wire color but it is the largest of the connections, about a number 10 or twelve, to the pannel control) that is also warm to the touch), I replaced this one once after it fried a previous connector. The Crusiar Manual says that the condensing unit is maintenance free and that R22 should not be changed or altered except in the event the unit was charged improperly in the original installation or unless a leak occurs which allows the gas to escape from the system. If that is the case should I even bother getting a tech rep to check it out? Would low gas cause a short temporary excesive power draw 5 seconds after sart up?

Post by **dougl33** » Mon Jun 14, 2010 3:56 pm

Cliff, Mine also has a ringing sound. What exact parts did you use to solve that problem? What was the cost?

richcatch22 · Post by **richcatch22** » Mon Jun 14, 2010 4:30 pm

Inspect and change if required all the $.25 electrical connectors on the A/C unit. Especially the blade type. I had a bad connection that toasted the capacitor. They A/C tech knew the problem right away and said it is very common. Shutodown and buzzing never again.