Winterizing 3208's
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jcrootbeer
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Winterizing 3208's
Hi All, Been a while since I've been to the site. Many crazy things the past year, but all is well now. I've missd the conversations and great information. I hope everyone had a nice Thanksgiving and a great start of the Holiday Season. I've begun winterizing my 33 and have gotten all the fresh water system, generator and head done. When looking to do the 3208's, I was thinking I need to do the same as the generator; pull the raw water intake from the seacock, put into the antifreeze bucket and suck into the system. When doing this, I've notice the hoses to the seacock are "really" on there well, and feel I might break them trying to pry off. Is there any other way to get the antifreze mix into the block? Thanks for the help, and it's good to be back in the mix.
'Till Next Hook Up....! Jerry C. "Reel Hard" Cape May, NJ.
You can pump pink juice in through the zinc hole. I do not recommend this. Are there any plugs on the strainer? Just remove the hoses. Heat the hose with a heat gun to soften the hose, then rock, twist, pull to loosen. Go to harbor freight and get a hose removal tool or work a screwdriver in between the hose and the barb. Look if the hose splits then it was time to replace anyway. Just get the hose off. try the end at the water pump maybe someone changed at pump and maybe you will have better luck. The best way to flush is to allow the engine to pump the pink juice.
Charlie 35 Bertram 3208 Cats
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jcrootbeer
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Thanks Charlie! I think once the wet weather stops, I'll be doing the hose removal. Will take your suggestions and heat the hoses and twist and pry away. While I have them off, I think I will also install a crash valve, as a charter boat here in Cape May had an incident today and took on a bunch of water. They had gotten the charter onto another boat and the Coast Guard got pumps to them so they made it to the slings. They were only about 6 miles off the beach. But the mate said they didn't have crash valves, or they could of made it in with no problem by pumping the flooding bilge through the engines. I think it will be worth the additional project time and money, plus meake future winterizing much easier. Thanks again for the reply.
'Till Next Hook Up....! Jerry C. "Reel Hard" Cape May, NJ.
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little doc
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If your raw water strainers are 'up', you can take the lids off and pour antifreeze in as the engine is running. It takes 2 people, but the engine will pull water at idle at about the same rate you can pour it in (according to the local yard mechanic). If that wont work, some jury rigged apparatus with a hose screwed to the cleanout of the strainer with a bucket filled with antifreeze on the other end of the hose (make sure the hose is big enough).
1981 B35 Island Time Cat 3208
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Brian Davin
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That's the way I winterize my Yanmars based on mechanics recommendation too. 1. First run engines with sea strainer caps off and running water hose directly into top. 2. Once engines warm, I shut down, change filters and oil, then restart with water hose running to check oil level and seals, once OK I shut down. 3. I then restart engines pouring anti-freeze directly into strainers. I pour multiple gallons, until I get pink coming out the exhaust. 4. Shut engines down and your complete. And yes, you need someone up top working the ignition while you're in the bilge.
Brian '90 Bertram 33' FBC Yanmar 370's "Never Say Never" '70 Bertram 24' Moppie Guilford, CT (Homeport) Kinnelon, NJ (Home)
CB35.... I am stumped.. I never heard of a "hose removal tool".. except a knife and a screwdriver. Just how does one work? Frank B - IRGuy@aol.com The weak will inherit only whatever the strong are willing to let them have! "Phoenix" 1983 FBC Cummins 6Bs - 315HP Wilmington, NC
Frank B - IRGuy@aol.com "Phoenix" 1983 FBC Cummins 6Bs - 315HP Wilmington, NC
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jcrootbeer
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Hey all, Thanks for the responses. This is the first year I have the boat in year round. It's in a new, private slip, and the current runs pretty strong, so no concern for water freezing. (hasn't on record yet). What I ended up doing was installing "crash valves" in line. Closed sea-cocks I removed the raw water hoses (after much prying, etc.). Removed the nipple / barb from the filter/strainer Screwed in a threaded M-M coupling. Attached a all female threaded “Tâ€�. Screwed the nipple / barb back into the top of the “Tâ€� I then attached another M/M coupling into side of the “Tâ€� Screwed on a brass valve Screwed in a threaded hose barb on the other end of the valve and attached a 3’ hose. With sea-cocks open and brass valve closed, engine pulls normal from sea water. With sea-cocks closed and brass valve open, engine pulls from new hoses in the bilge. (This is good if God forbid, the boat takes on water. It’s a GIANT bilge pump and keeps the engines running) When winterizing, just place the hose from the bilge, in the bucket of anti-freeze / fresh water.
'Till Next Hook Up....! Jerry C. "Reel Hard" Cape May, NJ.
Al... Thanks.. I was thinking it must be some sort of machine.. never thought it was a hand tool. The simpler, the better! Frank B - IRGuy@aol.com The weak will inherit only whatever the strong are willing to let them have! "Phoenix" 1983 FBC Cummins 6Bs - 315HP Wilmington, NC
Frank B - IRGuy@aol.com "Phoenix" 1983 FBC Cummins 6Bs - 315HP Wilmington, NC
Hi Jerry, Those crash valves are a great safety idea. From other designs that I've read about you'll want to make sure that you have some sort of strainer on them if you have to pump out the bilge in an emergency so nothing clogs your emergency bilge pumps.
Gerard FREEDOM 86 SF 454 Merc Green Pond, Falmouth MA
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richcatch22
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jcrootbeer
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Hey Gerard, I got some pretty fine stainless mesh. About same size holes as the main intake strainers and just wraped the end of the new hoses and then hose clamped. Should work fine. Let's hope there's no need to use them other than the annual winterizing.
'Till Next Hook Up....! Jerry C. "Reel Hard" Cape May, NJ.
Harbor Freight is the place; but prices are really up over a year ago. HF tools are not high quality; but hand tools are replaced for free. Grinders are not well balanced, so they get hard on the hands. Most tools come with extra brushes and I yet to destroy one. One 4.5" grinder is getting close the breaking in half. sucker still works after much abuse. I think it cost $14.99 on sale a couple of years ago. I use their 7" variable speed buffers. I have two one for wax on one for wax off. Their wool bonnets go for around $7 bucks. I can go to the marina and pay $25 for the same thing. I hate HF; but I love them too. I hate the fact the china crap works and it is so cheap. I love them because the stuff is so cheap and it works.
Charlie 35 Bertram 3208 Cats
Charlie... Well said! There is only one high quality tool store here in Wilmington, but we do have a Harbor Freight store.. For years before moving here from MA I had seen their catalogs but never bought anything from them.. I am leary of buying tools online, I have to pick them and look at them before I buy them. I have found exactly as you say.. they have cheap tools that work, but probably won't last forever. So, I use them for tools I only have an occasional need for. Example.. I bought for about $25 a small 12 volt impellor pump (Chinese mfg) I used to remove oil from my engines.. also I used it to vacuum out the fuel tank.. Having used it about 8 times I loaned it to a friend who has never returned it.. he lives and works in a boatyard 200 miles from here and says he uses it a lot. I won't ask him to return it.. he is a friend who has done me some favors so I simply bought another one. I always tell people you get what you pay for, but you almost never get more than you pay for. I think Harbor Freight is an exception! Frank B - IRGuy@aol.com The weak will inherit only whatever the strong are willing to let them have! "Phoenix" 1983 FBC Cummins 6Bs - 315HP Wilmington, NC
Frank B - IRGuy@aol.com "Phoenix" 1983 FBC Cummins 6Bs - 315HP Wilmington, NC


