Doug's Re-power

khybskid · Post by **khybskid** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 3:14 pm

cool, so i can use gore tex in place of flax. My shafts are due for something different

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 3:46 pm

For my $.02 I'll stick with the packing. may even move to the gortex stuff next time. I fished a friend's boat which had trouble with the dripless shaft logs and I'll take the plain old simple stuff. A little drip, drip now and then means they're working right. bilge pump runs every once and a while, good too, when all leaks stop then you've got worries. Here in the mid-Atlantic, we haul for the winter or at least once a year for bottom paint. So changing the packing is no big deal, I even keep enough to do both shafts on board. I haven't done it with the boat in the water, but hear its possible and would rather face that than the broke PSS equip. Thanks for the link, I'll bookmark it. -br JohnD John D "Lady D" Bertram 35 Pasadena MD

captgene · Post by **captgene** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 3:04 am

I change my packing in the water if I have to. But I haven't had to in 3 yrs now. Just drop down under the boat and stuff some plumbers putty around the shaft, or plastic garbage bags work well too. Not sure how hard it is to get the old Gortex out, but I bet it's easier than flax. Gene Dugan Boca Raton, Fl. "Nauti Marie" 1989 33 FBC

sbeer · Post by **sbeer** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 6:16 am

The G.F.O that I put in 2 yrs ago has been flawless. No drips and the only time I had to tighten was when I first installed it. I don't like the mechanical seal set-up because of vibration between the faces. Mechanical seals are built to run in the exact face to face set. Never change. Shaft vibration will cause the faces to move slightly off center and back. This is not good unless you have tungsten to silicon carbide.And even then. those to faces are so hard that they are brittle, causeing the faces to crack. The carbon to ceramic isn't bad but the carbon doesn't have much of a life, especially when the shaft isn't running dead on or any kind of shaft wip. G.F.O is, in my opinion the best thing that I have done as far as reduceing water in the bilge. Why complicate things and make it more expensive to maintain your boat. Unless of course your made of money. Mike

CB35 · Post by **CB35** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 10:54 am

I always change the packing while in the water. The pressure from the incomming water helps to push all the old packing out. Come on now guys we are not talking Noah's Flood here. Charlie

jadairiii · Post by **jadairiii** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 1:05 am

I must be out of the loop, what is GFO or gortex packing? I just use the "same old stuff" off the shelf. Thanks for the info. John

khybskid · Post by **khybskid** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 3:44 am

Hi john, i thought i was all alone on that question but if you go back to page 5 it will all be explained to you. I know cause i asked the same question. I think while the boat is laid up i will try this stuff. pete

jadairiii · Post by **jadairiii** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 3:40 am

Thanks guys, one more person that now knows what GFO is! John

captgene · Post by **captgene** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 3:25 am

I has been a little quiet here. What's the scoop? I need to ask. How did the cabnets come out? I remember Tim said it was pretty straight forward. Seeing , I got that screw removal tool from my wife, I am ready to go. I guess I'm concerned on how the counter top comes off in one solid piece. They probably installed it in the Boat. I'll have to start the "Gene's Repower and Redoor" thread pretty soon. The door is ordered from Canada. I'm enlarging the opening to 33.5" so I can get engines in and out. I have to rent a storage space to store the cabnets, frig.,stove, etc. I can refinish there too. All new bolsters and cushions, etc. will be done in 2-3 weeks. all I need now is more money. Gene Dugan Boca Raton, Fl. "Nauti Marie" 1989 33 FBC

Post by **dougl33** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 3:39 am

Gene, On mine, the counter-top did not need to come off, but the cabinets definately needed to come out. The installer pulled out the sink and lifted the starboard engine out by putting his rig right where the sink would go. Since your's is an 89 and the cabinets have a jog to the starboard side I'm not sure they need to come out. Maybe Brian can chime in on this one. The engines are in and lined up. He still needs to wire them up, set up the guages, drop the struts so we can pull the shafts, etc... Its come a long way, but there's still a lot to do. That's OK since its 9 degrees here today and the boat won't hit the water until June. Regards, Doug L. 1986 33 Bertram FBC Queen Elizabeth Marblehead, MA [img]http://www.bertram33.com/photogallery/p ... sabeth.jpg[/img]

Brian Davin · Post by **Brian Davin** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 5:15 am

Gene, When they pulled my 454's they pulled the manifolds etc. off and they were able to get the engine out without removing my cabinets. However, to put the Yanmar 370's in we ended up removing the cabinets from the refrigerator back, but not the countertop since that was a single unit and had continous trim along the front edge. Pulled the stove out and microwave, then unscrewed and/or removed nails where necessary. Took a couple of hours, but was worth it in the end because we found rot on the back wall where bulkhead joined the side. Ended up cutting out two pieces that were approximately 4-5" x 15-20" and then splicing/fiberglassing in new marine plywood replacements. Cabinets out made installation much easier without having to remove a thing from the engines. Brian '90 Bertram 33' FBC Never Say Never Guilford, CT (Homeport) Kinnelon, NJ (Home)

captgene · Post by **captgene** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 5:26 am

That is the comments I was looking for. I'm sure that if I tried to take off that countertop in one piece, it would break. Probably where the stove top is , or where it does the 90 to Port for the sink. I'll try to leave it in and take all the cabnets out underneath. I would think the sink cabnet can stay, unless the A Frame needs to go that far fwd. to get engines in and out. Gene Dugan Boca Raton, Fl. "Nauti Marie" 1989 33 FBC

Post by **dougl33** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 5:29 am

FYI: I also "found" some rot in the starboard side after bulkhead when the cabinet was pulled. I say "found", because I knew it was there when I bought the boat, I just didn't know how bad it was. There was some rot on the port side as well, though not nearly as bad. Once the cabinets where gone you could see how bad it was. Essentially, I could stick my finger from the inside right to the backside of the formica covering the outside. We wound up cutting the bottom 8 inches off of both sides of the rear bulkhead (the formica included). My brother wound up splicing in new 3/4 inch marine plywood (epoxied) and covered up the inside seam with a piece of teak that looks like a base board on the inside. On the outside, I will be replacing the vertical teak trim that caused the problem in the first place with a piece of solid fiberglass that will cover the seam on the outside. Regards, Doug L. 1986 33 Bertram FBC Queen Elizabeth Marblehead, MA [img]http://www.bertram33.com/photogallery/p ... sabeth.jpg[/img]

photo finish · Post by **photo finish** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 5:50 am

My installers were able to remove the starboard section of the back wall to starboard of the door.It was just bolted in . i think the previous owner redid the back wall.Made it real easy to remove and install the engines. I removed the cabinets and the counter. My counter was in 2 pieces split at the cook top.my galley is only on the side and does not wrap. The screw remover tool will come in handy.I felt it was better to just remove it all and take it to a formica shop to recover while the engines were being installed.It was not hard and it also kept them away from any potential accidents. Gene are you going with the Crusaders?

captgene · Post by **captgene** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 6:08 am

Tim, Yes the 2007 8.1s. The price went up about $1K with all the new electronic bells & whistles. I can't remember, did you have a all new countertop made, or have the old top recovered the new mica granite, silestone look? I'm going to refinish the walls and cabinets myself more than likely. Not sure I have any rot in that Stb side of the aft bulkhead, but I won't be too surprised if I do. I had a 6in x 6in spot in the Port side. I routed it out to the mica outside, filled it , and now I need to glue in some matching laminate and refinish it. Gene Dugan Boca Raton, Fl. "Nauti Marie" 1989 33 FBC