teak floors
quote:Originally posted by photo finish jose if you can post pix that would be great Sorry for the delay. As promised here is a link for the pictures. You can appreciate how easy it is to access both engines with this set up. It probably adds additional weight as well. Regards Jose My floor Jose Jaen "Blue Chip" 1993 33FBC Miami FL
Jose Jaen "Blue Chip" 1993 33FBC Panama City, Panama 

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franklyprice
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franklyprice
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Frank, I just emailed you the address. Thanks a lot for that, way cool. So, would these patterns work regardless of flooring material? Is your material planks, laminate or something else? Jose, your floors look awesome! Has anyone heard of this product called Flexiteek? Here is the link: Flexiteek I have a sample of it, and it seems pretty cool. It certainly is tough stuff, not sure how inexpensive it is or how good it looks once installed. Reminds me of astroturf. David Sumich Bertram33.com Forum Administrator
David Sumich
1986 SF - 33 Megabites
Huntington Harbour, CA
Forum Administrator

1986 SF - 33 Megabites
Huntington Harbour, CA
Forum Administrator
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franklyprice
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David, Yes these patterns should work regardles of the material used . What they are is just a pretty accurate pattern of the sole of the boat, including the head and forward berth area.I used teak and holly plywood (1/2") and I'm pretty happy with it so far, though not quite ready for the install yet. I'm still working with hatch edges and then will have to put the final finish on it. I have sealed it with epoxy and it's pretty exciting to see the color of the wood. it really jumps out. From what I understand, if you were to use planking, the method would be to build it up on the floor or other flat surface into large enough pieces to cut out the patterns, just like the plywood, so ultimately all you gain with the planks is the thickness to take an impact without hurting the 1.5 MM vineer of the plywood. Also you get to brag that it's real planks and not that cheep plywood. By the way, after all this work, that 6 large doesn't sound so bad.. One more thing David, I would like the patterns back , so if you don't think you want to do the floors right away, please at least check to see how accurate they fit your boat, make any small adjustments if necessary and send them back to me so I can possibly make soles for other late SF's. If we find that all late SF's are identical enough it may be worth marketing a kit of some kind. Frank Price
Frank Price
1987 SF "Jeanne Claire"
Rowley Ma

1987 SF "Jeanne Claire"
Rowley Ma

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franklyprice
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David, I have not received your email yet . Just in case there's a problem, its franklyprice@hotmail.com
Frank Price
1987 SF "Jeanne Claire"
Rowley Ma

1987 SF "Jeanne Claire"
Rowley Ma

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photo finish
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franklyprice
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Tim, The floors go come to but not under the cabinets. There will be a small base board trim to cover the edge. Also They need a little room for possible expansion so there will be a small gap around the edges that will be sealed with caulking.I'm concerned with possible water leakage into the cabin so I'll be extra careful to seal the botom of the edges also , so the water can't get under the floor. Right now I'm trimming the edges of the hatch openings and, while they look good finished, it's tough going. Getting the wood to curve around those radiused openings isn't really all that much fun. Frank Price
Frank Price
1987 SF "Jeanne Claire"
Rowley Ma

1987 SF "Jeanne Claire"
Rowley Ma

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franklyprice
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Al, I'm cutting very thin strips and laminating them together on the opening until I get 1/4 inch thickness.Sort of like making my own veneer, turns a big board into a bunch of saw dust and some strips. One of the problems I've run into is that the radius' on the forward hatches aren't the same on all four corners, even though the opening is in a molded piece of fiberglass. On my boat the whole cabin sole is molded fiberglass under the flooring and there were two hatches at the forward end that were covered with carpet which will now be usable.So in all, I have four hatches to trim and make nice. Frank Price
Frank Price
1987 SF "Jeanne Claire"
Rowley Ma

1987 SF "Jeanne Claire"
Rowley Ma

Frank, what if you laminated them up in a rough form? Then would it be possible to temporarily stick them down in place with carpet tape or a few dabs of hot melt glue. Then use your router with a bottom bearing straight bit & follow the recess around. Does this make sense? Not knowing your exact set up , I'm just trying to throw out some ideas. Al 1978 33 FBC NITES OFF
1978 33 FBC NITES OFF


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franklyprice
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Al, Actually I had thought of doing something like that but instead went ahead and cut the opening, then re-istalled the flooring for a final fit, marked any minor changes and then cut the opening to a quarter inch bigger than the opening on the floor and went for it with the strips.It sounds like there ought to be a better way to do it and working with all the clamps necessary while everything is all greasy with epoxy resin is sometimes frustrating but it comes out better than you'd think. You really have to know it's laminated to see the lines. By the way, the oak edges on the cabinets of the later boats like mine are all done the same way but I'm sure done on a mold first and then installed. I still have to fiqure out how to get the wood on the edges of the actual hatches themselves. More fun with wood and glue...
Frank Price
1987 SF "Jeanne Claire"
Rowley Ma

1987 SF "Jeanne Claire"
Rowley Ma

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photo finish
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Frank, you have to invest in a digital camera..i am trying to imagine the steps and process you are taking and i just cant follow ..i guess i am not much of a laminate and glue kind of guy i am more of a cut and screw dude. just be lucky you dont have an fbc because i will have to cut those big engine hatches.... Tim Stamm Photo Finish 1981 33' Bertram FBC
Tim Stamm Photo Finish 1981 33' Bertram FBC 




