Windlass Install - Deck Reinforced?

[BottomLine]

Another question for my windlass install. Do I need any deck reinforcement to install the new windlass over the anchor locker?

Mike Ford

[lobsta1]

Mike, I reinforced the entire bow with 3/4" plywood epoxied in place. I had scrap aluminum that I used as a backer plate. I had to buy metric threaded rod as the standard bolts were not long enough. Also remember to use some grease or other lubricant when threading in the bolts to preclude galling.

I know it is over kill but U know how the yahoos come charging by throwing a huge wake when your anchored. That is a lot of strain on the foredeck.
Al

[mouldrp]

Al’s got that right with his suggestion to lube the bolts.

Don’t ask me how many $18.00 plus stainless steel “T” bolt hose clamps I lost by not greasing them first. Also, they’re a bitch to get off when they do gall up.

Richard

[h2ojst]

Tef-Gel, guys. Use it on everything you ever need to disassemble or anywhere aluminum contacts stainless. Great product; prevents corrosion and galling and not nearly as messy as never seize. (I also spray most everything with my all-time favorite, Corrosion X which penetrates the metal)

[BottomLine]

Thanks. Good suggestions. Al, in a previous post you said you ran your wires "right down the middle of the boat." Did you just lay them in the bilge or did you attach them to the stringers somehow?

Mike

[lobsta1]

Mike, I ran the wires with the stb bundle to the stairway bulkhead, down & through & then secured them to the bundle just under the companionway floor. Through the fwd bulkhead & up to stb hull where I had glued wood blocks to secure the wires & then into the anchor locker up to the solenoid which I secured to the bulkhead.
Don't forget to leave some slack for service. You also need 14/3 from the solenoid to wherever you mount the operating switch.
Al

[BottomLine]

Thanks Al. You always come through.

Mike