Bertram33 User Forum

This is the bane of my boating existence. I'm in South Georgia and I can't go 4 days and still have perfectly clean running gear. If I plan a trip part of my to-do list is to dive on the boat and clean up the running gear. I haven't found anything that actually works for more than a short time to pr...

Buzz - I think the engine manual calls for a 250 hour service interval on the impellers (don't take that as gospel, I don't have it in front of me) The reason I can't remember the specified service interval is becaus I simply change mine annually.

Fien Multimaster? I'll look it up. I have forgotten my digital camera the last several times I went down, but I promise I will get around to it. At this point the cabin is a wreck, but I'll show it all.

I mentioned a few weeks ago that I need to re-bed and generally refurbish the bow rail stanchions on my boat. This involves gettin to the nuts underneath them, which involves pulling the "fur" lining the hull sides in the vee-berth .... You get the picture. Since I'm going to this much tro...

I agree with you, Doug, but I had hoped the job would be simple. I'm happier to know that it was done right initially than that the job will be easier.

Thanks for the info, Pete. When you removed the old bases, were they screwed down or through-bolted? (I assume through-bolted, but if they're simply screwed into the core around the rail then the job of removal just got easier.) Thanks again for the info.

I don't have lockers, but there's what I suppose is a liner which hides the screws completely. I haven't yet found how the liner is removed. I would hate to think it has to be cut out. I will everyone know what I uncover. Meanwhile, anyone who has done this before, please feel free to offer guidance.

My bow rail stanchions are showing signs of age... Rust stains, some loosening, one's cracked, etc. I have re-bedded one, the back of which I was able to access via the locker on starboard side of the v-birth. It was tight enough access, but I have no idea how to come at the majority of the screws a...

Sean - Do you recall the breaker manufacturer and model? (Potter & Brumfield?) Thanks

Sorry, missed your last post, and missed the reference to NiBral. They aren't NiBral. I haven't been to storage to get the dimensions, but I'll let you know asap. BTW, most 1 3/8" props can be bored to 1 1/2".

I'll double-check the size of the ones I removed when I repowered. I know they're 1 1/2" bore, but the pitch and diameter I can't remember right now. If they'll work for you I'll give you a REAL good deal on them. Fraser

Mine was around $40k, not including the cost of the engines. I did more than was absolutely necessary to the repower. I would estimate that with better planning and paring down the project list would reduce the cost by as much as $20k. You would need to be VERY organized and involved to pull it off ...

Sean - Michaels are 6bta's, with the aftercooler you're talking about. My 300's have the same aftercooler and it really isn't as bad as all that. I had one that had been neglected before I bought it and that was a mess, but I've learned that if you disassemble and clean them annually (this is far ov...

I agree with Bill. I installed 300's and feel like they are barely enough to give me the cruise speed I want. Regarding the exhausts, there are many ways to go. Modifying an existing muffler is possible and has been done succesfully many times. Without knowing the exact equipment you plan to modify ...

Mike - Have you got any performance reports for us?